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Writer's pictureEllie McBroom

In Praise of the Day Trip: Discovering Piha

Updated: Oct 24, 2023

Settling into our new life on an island far from the familiar, I anticipated the challenge of adjusting, particularly given my tendency to get stir crazy after sitting still/spending more than a month without traveling. My work history involved frequent travel, and I was committed to regular weekend getaways to visit college friends across the country, not to mention the holiday trips back to Kentucky. However, when you uproot your entire family to the other side of the world, those spontaneous weekend trips and the usual holiday journeys back home become elusive, particularly in the initial months of settling in and establishing new routines.


So, here I am, three months into the move, feeling that familiar restlessness. I began researching flights to the South Island or Australia, but quickly realized the infeasibility for at least a few months until we returned to being a dual-income household.


Thankfully: All hail the day trips!


Before our move, I avidly scoured the "Moving to New Zealand" Facebook groups. Countless posts praised the picturesque landscapes and offerings of the South Island while criticizing Auckland. This left me grappling with FOMO, questioning our choice to prioritize city life over the charming towns of the South Island.


However, as my wanderlust intensified, my family—Charlie, the kids, and I—began exploring parks, beaches around Auckland, and nearby day-trip destinations. Although we haven't ventured too far yet, I've come to firmly believe that beauty can be found everywhere in New Zealand. In this and the upcoming posts, I’ll share some of our fantastic day trips and nearby adventures.


First Up: Piha

During my job hunt, I've had a few informational interviews with kiwis and fellow expats. One conversation led to a fellow American gushing about Piha's beauty. Intrigued, it topped my list and I've since visited twice.


Piha, a breathtaking black-sand beach on the West Coast, is just 45 minutes from our home in Central Auckland. One Saturday, we packed into our bright green car and set off for the day. The drive there wound us through the scenic Waitakere Ranges Regional Park, covering us in the canopies of the lush Rimu rainforests. When we arrived and parked - we walked past the sand dunes blocking the beach and were instantly struck by Piha's enchanted aura. Visiting during early Spring meant cool temperatures and rolling mist. At low tide, we explored tide pools, wandered beneath towering cliffs, and encountered one of Asher’s teachers who shared details about a challenging “bush” hike.



Piha is renowned among surfers, but our day was spent watching our kids explore the beach, building forts with brush, and marveling at the sea creatures in sand pools. Drawing pictures in the sand and observing sea birds became the highlights of our day. It was a simple, low-key, soul-soothing experience. The beauty of the uncrowded beach left me with an ethereal sense of the place.


Background on Piha

The name ‘Piha’ originates from the Māori term ‘Te Piha,’ referring to the divided ripple at the bow of a canoe, resembling the waves breaking around Lion Rock, the beach's iconic rock formation.



One fascinating spot is 'The Gap,' a low point between Taitomo Island and cliffs, where waves crash dramatically. During low tide, a pool forms, inviting swimmers for a refreshing dip. In Māori tradition, The Gap was the where the famous Taniwha Kaiwhare, the guardian spirit of the coast resided. He was notorious for causing floods and overturning canoes. Kaiwhare means “the house eater”, and he earned this name because over time local folk embarking on ocean voyages or fishing trips floated in food on a little raft with a house on top, to appease Kaiwhare. In the end, the the local iwi (tribe) decided Kaiwhare had to be killed because he was causing too much trouble and this was accomplished by the warrior Hakawau. He placed a net over the Blowhole and killed Kaiwharu, who in his death throes lashed about and created The Gap. (Credit: this oral history is paraphrased directly from this website.)


While the above tale is a bit dark, I love hearing the origin stories and the history of such important Māori sites as we explore and discover this new county.


If You Visit/Where to Eat

Piha's town is small, but don't miss a meal at Piha Surf Lifesaving Club. I savored a delicious beer and sandwich there. Also, make sure to stop at the overlook on your way in to capture the incredible views from above!

[put a bird on it!: Piha edition]

Bonus: Ellie's Fun Facts and Observations

  1. There are swathes of sand at Piha that look BLUE. It's incredible; I've done some very lazy googling, but have yet to figure out why. (Please enlighten me if you know.) Nonetheless; it makes me think of the bluegrass of Kentucky and feels lit some small, strange connection to my homeland, and I love it.

  2. Charlie and I love the show Our Flag Means Death. We were watching the opening scene of the second season and I had to make him pause; delighting in the very recent familiarity of the landscapes. I quickly Googled (and (faster than with the blue sand search) confirmed some of this season was filmed at Piha.* You'll see beach scenes that match my pictures at 1:40 into the newest season's trailer - rad!

*Interestingly enough, most scenes from OFMD filmed at Piha thus far have been the dream/purgatory scenes, further solidifying the ethereal nature of the place in my mind...





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